I start with the raw material of a tree that was cut recently. We call this green woodworking, because the moisture content of the wood is very high. This makes for using hand tools like axes, saws, adzes and knives much easier, as the green wood is less dense which makes it feel ‘softer.’ I usually carve my spoons to about 85% completion, then wait for it to dry, which only takes a few days. Once dry, I do what’s called ‘finishing cuts,’ which essentially is carving the spoon again in order to achieve a smoother finish since I don’t use sand paper. Once the finishing cuts are done, I usually bake them in the oven to add a nice toasty color and to heat harden them. Then I might add some milk paint and/or I will oil them and call them done!

I work with the trees that are native to the land I live on. I’ve spent lots of time with them and have figured out which species works best for what item. Big leaf maple is my favorite, as it is very versatile. I sometimes work with cherry and I am to make most cooking spoons from dogwood because of it durability. I sometimes receive wood from arborists that may be native or ornamental.

For spoons and bowls, I use raw tung oil. I find after it cures it provides long lasting protection and is food safe. I experiment occasionally with other finishing options but for now I have a method of curing in a kiln and applying a coat of Odie’s Oil, which is a non toxic food safe finish that gives some nice water repellency and sheen for a while.

For cups, I use a Japanese lacquer called Urushi. It is quite an amazing material, a tree resin native to Japan, China and Korea. Once applied to wood correctly, it provides a waterproof, acid and alcohol resistant finish that can last for generations. Visit this site for more information.

If an item arrives broken or cracked, please get in touch right away and I’ll work to replace it as fast as I can. If you feel like your rather get a refund, mail it back to me and I’ll issue a refund.

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